Learning to Surf on the Road

Learning to Surf on the Road: 5 Good Spots and 5 Helpful Tips

By: Steve Bramucci

No sport has quite as strong a sales pitch as surfing—a solitary rider dancing across the face of a glassy wave, seeming to master it in one moment and in danger of getting swallowed whole the next. This hard-sell is especially effective on the road, where people make a specific effort to try new things. Anyone who’s traveled for long stretches has at least been nibbled by the surf-bug and it’s become increasingly rare to meet a backpacker who hasn’t given it a shot once or twice. But what about those who really want to “get it,” who dream of carving a perfect bottom turn and long for the days when the feeling of a board under their arm is as natural as a backpack on their shoulders?

Those desires and a healthy mixture of love and respect for the ocean make a good jumping off point. The next step, whether you are already on the road or just in the planning stages, is to think about where to learn. The place that you choose can frame your entire experience and make all the difference in the world. Don’t you dare try to learn at Pipeline (sound ridiculous? It should), don’t try to learn at G-Land, Jeffery’s Bay, Trestles or Bells Beach either—if a wave is iconic, has a pro tour stop named after it or is mentioned wistfully in Point Break, it isn’t the place to start your surf career.

But don’t worry, there are plenty of spots that are perfect for beginners—here’s the list:

1 - Oahu, Hawaii, USA

A lesson on Waikiki Beach

Oahu is home to “The North Shore” a seven mile stretch of the best breaks in the world. Even rookies recognize names like Pipeline, Log Cabins, Sunset and Waimea—but those are spots that should be left to the rippers.

Beginners should look at Waikiki, the inside break at Haleiwa, Chuns Reef, Cockroach Bay and Puena Point. All five locations boast slow, rolling surf and locals who understand that many of the people in the water are just getting their feet wet.

2 - Kuta Beach, Bali, Indonesia

The tourist invasion has spoiled Kuta on many levels. The sand that used to be white is now grey, there is a very centrally located McDonalds, surf shops owned by Australians vastly outnumber local businesses. Still, the guesthouses are cheap, the waves at both Kuta and Legian are gentle (and even when they’re not they pile onto a sandy bottom) and you can definitely find plenty of likeminded beginners to push you in your progress.

3 - New South Wales, Australia

Bondi Beach in Sydney

Every state in Australia (excluding the Northern Territory, which isn’t one) has a few good options for learning to surf and hosts at least one world class break. It’s no surprise that the country has become as connected with surfing in the minds of travelers as Hawaii or California. For beginners landing at the airport in a fit to get going, New South Wales is likely to be the best choice. Bondi Beach, right in Sydney, is a sandy-bottomed break that is usually forgiving with learners.

Another favorite is Byron Bay, a longtime stopover for itinerant backpackers. The vibe in the water is just as friendly and welcoming as the vibe on land.

4 - The Pacific Coast, Costa Rica

Jaco Beach in Costa Rica

Costa Rica is getting more and more visitors who arrive with the specific intent of learning to surf. It is a land of surf camps, where boat-hire, instruction and professional photography are all readily available. The entire west coast is loaded with sandy, cruisy learning spots where many beginners catch their first wave. Dominical, Nosara and Jaco all have good starter waves with plenty beachside bars ideal for trading stories.

5 - Central & Southern California, USA

Seriously, you thought we’d forget? California is still a surfer’s paradise and can’t be ignored as a surf destination. And while the whole state has plenty of incredible surf spots, warmer water makes the central and south more ideal for those just starting to stand up.

In Central California, Santa Cruz’s Cowell’s is one of the planet’s most renowned beginner breaks. The wave is long and forgiving, with plenty of push to allow you to get to your feet. In Southern California shoot for Navy Street in Santa Monica, San Onofre, Doheney and Newport Pier in Orange County and Mission Beach in San Diego.

Tips for learning to surf on the road

If none of those spots are on your itinerary don’t worry, most countries with good waves have at least a few breaks that can accommodate beginners. Take the time to seek them out. Look for a wave that breaks onto a sandy bottom not a reef, has an easy take off point and is of manageable size. Finding a break that meets those pre-requisites will make learning easier and faster, but what’s even more important is taking the time to learn the right way. Some surfers learn faster than others because of natural talent, but more often than not it’s a matter of approach. Surfing takes some time to get a hang of—here are five tips for how to speed up the learning curve:

1 - Take Lessons

Lessons on Kuta Beach, Bali

What this means is “take lessons from someone who knows how to teach, not just how to surf.” There’s a lot to learn from a good instructor and even after learning the fundamentals beginners can gain skill faster with someone keeping an eye on them and giving them detailed advice. Look for an instructor that you connect with, a program that has good equipment and a student-teacher ratio no higher than four to one. Every one of the spots listed above has reputable surf schools operating nearby.

2 – Choose the Right Board

Your first surfing experience could easily be derailed by having too small of a board. Rookies should start with a long board or a fun shape, something that will float you and allow you to feel the sensation of being propelled by the wave. It may also be a good idea to start out on a board that is soft on top.

Dustin Campbell, the General Manager of INT Softboards, says, “they’re made for safety and incredibly user friendly. Beginners aren’t going to get hurt riding them.” If you’re renting make sure that you know the damage policy and that you get a leash to go with the board.

3 – Learn the Right-Of-Way

Courtesy matters in crowded Santa Cruz

Surfing has a natural set of rules, dictated by safety and the desire for everyone to have a good experience. The most crucial rule is that the surfer who is on their feet closest to the wave’s peak has right-of-way. Another way to put it is that if you are paddling and you see someone standing and coming down the line towards you, it’s your job to get out of the way.

You should 100% without-a-doubt learn how to be a courteous, polite surfer before you set foot in the water. This is particularly relevant for travelers, surfing at someone else’s home break. Defer to the locals, don’t try for every wave, smile, be friendly. Naturally, mistakes are bound to happen. If you do cut someone off a sincere apology goes a long way.

4 – Hold On

Surfing is by no means an inherently dangerous pastime, especially in the conditions that suit beginners. But still you have to keep your wits about you, be aware and consider others. One of the most important things you can do is hang onto your board. All too often inexperienced surfers see waves about to crash on them and dive under, leaving their board to drag behind (if they have a leash) or to go rocketing toward shore.

This can easily lead to injury and will definitely annoy every other person in the water. Instead, learn to duck dive or turtle roll right away, so that even if a big set comes in you won’t feel compelled to leave your board behind. For more info on the “do’s” and “don’ts” of courteous surfing visit www.surfinghandbook.com

5 – Have Fun

For most of us, surfing is a pastime. It is a diversion and meant to be a time to laugh, to reflect and to enjoy ourselves. Don’t get caught up in comparing yourself to other surfers or comparing your progress to that of other beginners in your class or group. Surfing, even when practiced by the ancient Hawaiians, was always something done just for the fun of it. Surf with that spirit in mind and you’ll find that people in the lineup will be friendly to you and willing to offer advice.

With that said…Welcome to the tribe!

Australia’s Northern Territory: 10 Things Not to Miss

By: Steve Bramucci

To me, the Northern Territory is Australia. That’s not to say that the rest of the country doesn’t have much going on, it certainly does, but the Northern Territory is the Australia of my boyhood. When, as a twelve year old, I fantasized about visiting the land Down Under, my mind imagined vast expanses, Aboriginal bushmen, frill-necked lizards, kangaroos taller than my father, giant red rocks, ferocious crocodiles and the endlessly vacant outback – and this iconic version of Australia, the stuff of childhood dreams, really does exist in the Northern Territory.

It’s in the territory after all where the majority of Australia’s crocs reside, and where Sweetheart, the country’s most famous crocodile—notorious for attacking boats—made her nest. It’s the territory where many Aboriginal young men still go on “walkabout” when they come of age and where most of Australia’s indigenous population lives. It’s the territory that Mick Dundee called home, in the movie Crocodile Dundee, which (let’s admit it) informed most of our early opinions on the country and the territory where frilled necked lizards leave their dens during the wet season, escaping predators by running on their hind legs. It’s even the territory where red kangaroos, known to grow as tall as six and a half feet, hop through the scrub brush at the base of Uluru, Australia’s red-rock centerpiece.

And since Australia’s Northern Territory is twice as large as the state of California with 1/200th of the population, it’s the most ideal place to carve out a little elbow room and explore the outback. Here are my top-ten must-visit spots in “The Territory”:

1 – Uluru

The navel of Australia isn’t just a national icon; it’s also one of the most sacred Aboriginal sites that the country has on offer and certainly one of the most beautiful on a grand scale. Standing next to Uluru, glowing red in the afternoon sun, while reading the dreaming stories retold by the Anangu people for tens of thousands of years, a person feels humbled but at the same time connected rather than insignificant. Few places on the planet can offer such a depth of emotion.

2 - Kata Tjuta

Resting in the same National Park, and a mere ten miles away from Uluru, the domed formations of Kata Tjuta are often thought of as even more striking by travelers. Which makes it stranger still to learn that only 25% of the visitors to Uluru-Kata-Tjuta National Park stop off there at all. One wonders, once you’ve gone all that way (because the Red Center is not close to anything else in the whole country) why not push on those extra ten miles? Those who do discover that it’s infinitely worth it —and the Valley of the Winds walk, following a path through the domes carved by rushing wind for millions of years, is an experience that won’t soon be forgotten.

3 - Kakadu National Park

Before I ever set foot on Australian soil I was surprised to find Kakadu National Park ranked above even the mighty Uluru in a book titled: 100 Places in Australia That Australians Should See Before They Die. Now, having spent a combined month tramping through the park, I know why.

Kakadu, located in the Territory’s “top-end” is as diverse and fascinating as the country itself. It is a massive park, 12,305 square miles (roughly the size of Israel) with a wildly varied ecology. Grasslands, mangrove swamps, deciduous forests, savanna and monsoon rainforests all flourish here creating a wide variety of animal habitats.

Cruising the Yellow Water Billabong at sunset to spot birds, crocodiles and the occasional buffalo is an absolute must. Also be sure not to miss the rock art and panoramic wetland vistas at Ubirr or the opportunity for a swim at Jim Jim Falls, Gunlom Falls (where parts of Crocodile Dundee were filmed) or Maguk Plunge Pool.

4 - Kings Canyon

This spot is the least visited of Central Australia’s big three (behind Uluru and Kata Tjuta) but those who do visit are in for a treat.

The Rim Walk, around the top of the canyon, indulges hikers with hundreds of egg-shaped sandstone domes unfolding across the horizon, wide vistas of the surrounding stone country and vertigo inducing looks 330 feet down to the valley floor below.

Inside of the canyon there is a small, wind-protected swimming hole perfect for refreshing tired hikers and for taking in the much more comfortable view up the sheer walls.

5 - Animal Tracks Safari

It is not my business to blatantly plug a safari company. But in all my time in Australia I have seen an endless string of travelers disappointed because they were not able to have an experience in which they gained access to genuine Aboriginal culture. Animal Tracks does just that in a way that honors Aboriginal Heritage rather than exploiting it. With an Aboriginal guide, guests track crocs and learn to find wild carrots, yams, grubs and sugar bag (native honey). Later they use fire sticks to get a blaze going for roasting crocodile, kangaroo and barramundi on an underground oven. This is a perfect way for kids to learn about this fascinating culture and pick up a few basic survival skills.

6 - Litchfield National Park

Go to Litchfield on a hot Saturday and you’ll get a master’s class on how Territorians stay cool. The park is Mother Nature’s take on Wild Rivers, a circuit of amazing swimming holes and cliff jumps. The finest gem among them is Walker Creek where you can reserve a shady campsite and have a natural swimming pool, carved by river against rock, all to yourself—water monitor lizards and butterflies included.

7 – Darwin

The largest population center in the Territory, Darwin is far from being a booming metropolis. The town has a quaint feel and it’s easy to explore the sidewalk bars and harbor side parks by foot. Be sure to visit the sprawling Mindil Beach Sunset Market (Thursday & Sunday only), pretty much the only place I’ve ever been where you can feast on an endless variety of local and international dishes, purchase a bottle of organic honey, get a massage and watch monkey hand puppets play the bongos all in one night. Another great way to acquaint yourself with the city is to hop aboard the Alfred Nobel for a dinner cruise with Darwin Harbor Cruises. The cruise is a perfectly relaxing chance to learn the history of Australia’s second most famous harbor while indulging in oysters, shrimp and barbecued barramundi.

8 - Douglas Hot Springs

Normally when I think hot springs I think of mildly warm water that smells overpoweringly of sulfur. But not Douglas. Here the water bubbles up boiling hot through a sandy creek bed and converges with a cool water section of running river. The resulting mix comes at any temperature that you could desire (from scalding to tepid). Sitting in the steaming pools at dusk with your legs trailing in the current is the all the spa you’ll ever need up in the Territory. Keep your eyes peeled for the two beautiful olive pythons living in the hollow tree stump at the water’s edge.

9 - Katherine George

My favorite experience in Australia may very well be the 41-mile, five day Jatbula Trail tracing the Edith River near Katherine. Arrive in the early part of the dry season (when the rivers are safe from saltwater crocs but there’s still lots of water flowing) and you will experience some of the most stunning, yet isolated scenery the territory has to share. Each day of hiking leads to a new, separate, and totally unpopulated waterhole with natural slides, cliffs to jump off of and animals of all sorts to spot including the rare frill-necked lizard. The hike winds through grassy savannah, swampy wetlands, and rough stone country—sometimes all three in a day, before dropping you at another empty, spectacular campsite.

10 - Arnhem Land

Abutting Kakadu National park, this vast Aboriginal Land Trust is difficult for tourists to access but worth the effort ten-times over. Arnhem Land has the same various beauty as Kakadu without the infrastructure or crowds. More importantly, this is the spot to go if you are looking to connect with indigenous people living in the traditional manner. Some of the area can be accessed by tourists who hold permits, reserved far in advance. If you aren’t planning a year out a better option comes around in July, when the Aboriginal Community at Oenpelli (near the Kakadu-Arnhem Land Border) hosts an “Open Day”. There, visitors can see the works of traditional artists, practice spear throwing, enjoy local music and dance and watch a footy match between neighboring communities. A month later, on the isolated Gove Peninsula in North East Arnhem Land, the Garma Culture Festival kicks off, a weeklong opportunity for visitors to see the intact cultural traditions of the Yolngu people who have inhabited the peninsula continuously throughout the course of history. It may take a little research to access Arnhem Land but the opportunity to interact with Aboriginal communities on their land and on their terms is absolutely invaluable.

So there it is. The Northern Territory in all its croc filled, scorched earth, wild, sprawling, epic glory. In danger of sounding far too gushy: let me wager that this is the Down Under you’ve always dreamed of.

When to go

To visit the Top-End try the end of May till the first week in July when the water holes are full but the crocs have moved out of them. The Red Center is great any time but keep in mind that summer temperatures regularly climb upwards of a hundred and ten degrees. Photo credits: Uluru by Peter Nijenhuis on Flickr, Kings Canyon by Lyndi&Jason on Flickr, Darwin sunset market by grun2000 on Flickr, Swimming hole and Gunlom Falls by Steve Bramucci